STUNNING KORCULA

Envoy is now at Lefkas Island, Greece.
Back to Croatia - being close to the island of Zlarin, famous for jewelry hand made from locally-sourced coral, we headed there for breakfast, anchoring in Zlarin’s sheltered harbour.

Small boat harbour in Zlarin

Zlarin is famous for hand made coral jewelry

Zlarin is also known as the home of the inventor of the popular aluminium “Mag-light” flashlights.
With his new-found wealth he bought this waterfront mansion in Zlarin.

Zlarin is picturesque, but here we found the Croatian waiter service a low point, really to the point of rudeness, and we were reluctant to spend any money there at all. Additionally none of the several tavernas served breakfast fare so we settled for luke-warm coffee and a croissant from a nearby bakery.

However we did find a fresh water supply on the wharf and filled up our containers to replenish Envoy’s water supply.

Zlarin's gorgeous tree-lined streets

That afternoon we cruised to a group of un-named islands off Zlarin’s southern side and had evening drinks ashore. We always enjoy having drinks ashore, but wasps were still a real concern swarming over our drinks and food.

Frank and Laurie enjoying a cold beer ashore

Laurie cools off in a rock pool with Envoy's RHIB moored to nearby rocks

Envoy anchored near the island of Zlarin

Needing to make up some miles southwards we cruised 38 miles back to Soline in the SV Klement islands. A swell here caused Envoy to roll at anchor so we deployed our flopper stoppers for the first time in weeks, making our stay much more comfortable and giving Frank and Marie a great demonstration of their effectiveness.
A major consideration in choosing anchorages has been avoiding having to pay, and we found a superb free anchorage at Uvala Luka, on the western end of the mainland’s Peljesac Peninsula, so sheltered from all wind directions that it was used by Roman galleys two thousand years ago. There’s a great village called Loviste, and the staff in two tavernas we visited couldn’t have been more friendly and helpful. When we explained the problems we’d had with taverna staff further north our waiter laughed and said, “yes they’re all savages up there”. As we moved south the wasp situation also improved drmatically.
We returned to a favourite anchorage near Lombarda for Frank and Marie’s last three days. Ashore was a terrific Pacific island-style beach bar shaded with palm tree fronds, and we had evening cocktails served again by friendly staff.

Laurie, Frank and Marie enjoy cocktails in the Lombarda beach bar

A wetsuit-clad snorkeler climbed out of the water onto a jetty and showed me three good-sized octopus he’d caught in the bay, soon to end up on the BBQ.
From Lombarda it’s only a short bus ride to Korcula and we spent a day looking around this fascinating fortified historic town, built in its present form in the 15th century and dripping with atmosphere.

Korcula viewed from seaward

Lonely Planet describes Korcula as having a Gothic core with Renaissance overtones. Even the “new Korcula” dates from the 17th and 18th centuries.
Intricate Gothic stone carvings decorate the medieval buildings

 

Korcula's narrow lanes are filled with interesting shops and tavernas

 

Korcula's impressive main gate

A highlight is ascending the stiflingly narrow staircase of the St Mark’s Cathedral bell tower.

Lifelong friends Laurie and Frank enjoy view of Korcula from the Cathedral bell tower

This is one of the stunning views

Frank and Marie on Korcula's fortifications

Next day we hired a car and drove around Korcula Island with the highlights being visiting a vineyard and buying some great white wine near Smokvica, seeing a traditional wedding in the tiny town of Pupnat, and having a great lunch in Vela Luka.

Vineyard near the village of Smokvica

Korcula is very stony and it was amazing how much work over the centuries has gone into clearing the stony ground and building terraced retaining walls to prevent erosion and keep the moisture in the soil for olive plantations.
Vela Luka's harbour and waterfront

After three great weeks Frank and Marie left us at Lombarda.

TECHNICAL – nothing to report
ENVOY LOG as at 25 August 131 days spend aboard and 1,086 miles cruised for 213 engine hours.