BACK IN THE GREEK IONIAN WE REFLECT ON CROATIA

Envoy is currently at Cephalonia Island, Greece
We had very high expectations of Croatia as Envoy’s former owners and many other cruisers told us it was their favourite destination – with the proviso about the irritation of having to pay for some anchorages. The September issue of Motor Boat and Yachting magazine had this to say (paraphrased) comparing Greece with Croatia:
“Both locations are stunning – crystal clear water, long sunny seasons and delicious cuisines. We found Greece less crowded and very friendly. The Greek islands offer a pretty unbeatable combination of wonderful anchorages and sandy beaches (Croatia doesn’t for the most part offer beaches) and a long season. The landscape is more varied than Croatia and each island offers something a little different. We also found Greece cheaper than Croatia – almost all the berths are free (either town quays with electricity and water, or pontoons in front of restaurants), the food is varied, supermarkets larger and cheaper and living costs lower. In Croatia provisions were limited in the smaller ports and fuel was quite expensive. Croatia’s proximity to Italy is very attractive and you will be spoilt for choice when dining out.”
Diane and I agree with all of the above but want to stress the friendliness of the Greeks compared to the Croatians. This is generally speaking, as we also found friendly Croatians. We found many of the small Croatian island villages quite dull compared with Greek villages and with less to see of historical interest. Prolific numbers of wasps are annoying in some areas (more wasps as you go north). On a positive note the Croatian medieval towns like Dubrovnik, Split and Korcula are stunning.
Since returning to Greece we’ve discussed this subject with other cruisers who’ve visited both areas, and most seem to prefer Greece.

As we approached the craggy white cliffs of Erikoussa Island a pod of dolphins played around Envoy, seemingly to welcome us back to Greece.

The impressive cliffs of Erikoussa Island

On our first morning back in Greece we went ashore on Erikoussa, where there is a great sandy beach, no wasps and where the owners of a local taverna were totally friendly and helpful, as we generally find in Greece. Very often shopkeepers give you a gift or a complimentary drink when you pay the bill, and after spending 167 Euros (about NZ$274) in a small superette, the friendly owner gave us a jar of local honey.

Beautiful sandy beach at Erikoussa

Note the windmill behind the beach

This boat for sale presumably comes with the geese sheltering underneath

We’ve spent some time in this general Corfu area so decided to check out a place we’d never been – Ormos Valtou, known as “Igoumenitsa Creek” offering superb shelter, but murky water with a few jellyfish. Nearby though is a great sandy beach with sparkling water and almost nobody there.

Envoy anchored in Igoumenitsa Creek

Health and Safety nightmare jetty

 

Run-down shack on run-down jetty

A wider view of the same sheltered anchorage

Stunning Ormos Valtou beach near Igoumenitsa

 

We cleared-in to Greece at Gouvia marina using our usual agents, A1 Yachting, and once again didn’t get our passports stamped but cleared-in as Captain and Crew, giving us a longer stay as the Schengen Treaty provisions don’t apply. Here we would replenish our stores, get some maintenance done and meet our daughter, Amy.
TECHNICAL In Gouvia marina two engineers who’ve worked on Envoy before, Leo and Theodore, tackled several jobs: Load Adaptor: They removed the load adaptor with the failed seal and took it away to do a rebuild. Fortunately only the grease seal had failed so they modified the adaptor so that an available seal size would fit and then re-assembled and installed it. This load adaptor is filled with high temperature grease to protect its bearings, and does not need any subsequent addition of grease, despite there being a grease nipple on the unit. Leo suggested loosening the grease nipple slightly to allow internal pressure to release through the threads of the nipple, rather than putting pressure on the seal. As we’ve “blown” two seals in five years we’ve done this and so far all good. Naiad stabiliser sea water cooling pump: This 12V Groco pump supplies sea water to cool the Naiad’s hydraulic oil, and had been leaking small amounts of sea water. Leo removed the pump, replaced the seal, and all is OK. At the same time we fitted an air bleed valve on the outlet side of the pump to make priming the pump easier after extended non-use. Domestic fresh water pump: One of two interchangeable Shurflo 12V pumps had stopped working. Leo removed and dismantled this, finding a failed water seal and subsequent corroded bearings. It was more economical to replace the pump with our spare new one than repair the old one. Generator: I had thought that recently the generator sounds a bit “rattly,” and asked Theodore to listen to it. He confirmed the cause as a worn bearing on the end of the shaft that supports the AC generation equipment together with the bush that supports the bearing becoming over-sized through wear. He suggested we get this seen to during the winter. I also took my two scuba tanks and regulator to a dive shop. In Greece tanks need to be hydrostatically tested and re-certified every three years and mine are well past that. The regulator hadn’t been used for several years so I wanted to get it professionally tested.
ENVOY LOG as at 11 September, 148 days spend aboard and 1,422 miles cruised for 274 engine hours.