Thursday, February 25, 2016

TOP CRUISING SPOTS OF THE EASTERN MED (PART 2) – TURKEY'S SNAKE AND CASTLE ISLANDS

While Envoy is in Lefkas Marina, Greece, we are home in Auckland, New Zealand planning to return to Greece early April to commence cruising by late April.

Destination 2: Snake and Castle Islands (Sehir Adalari)
Where is it:
At the eastern end of the Gulf of Gokova, which has many great anchorages. On its northern shore is the village of Cokertme and large town of Bodrum while the entrance is protected by the Greek island of Kos.
How long is required to enjoy here:
A few days for the islands and a couple of weeks or so for the surrounding area.
Brief outline:
An enchanting anchorage sheltered between Snake, Castle and Tomb islands and the mainland. It's busy with tripper boats during daytime but quiet by late afternoon with stunning sunsets. Great for swimming and snorkeling. Interesting 2,700 year old ruins set in olive groves including a well-preserved Roman theatre.

The Snake and Castle Islands offer good shelter for anchoring

Must do:
After the crowds have departed have a swim at Cleopatra's Beach.

At nearby Cokertme a Turkish lady bakes bread

We had a snorkel around the ancient harbour area to see a considerable amount of pottery remains scattered across the sea bed. We were also surprised at the number and variety of small fish along with sea cucumbers and snake-like 400mm long sea worms.
When we returned to Envoy there was a large number of gulets (traditional tripper boats) anchored in the bay, one so close that it almost touched us. Di yelled out a warning to the gulet's skipper who had a look but was totally unconcerned.

Envoy in the sheltered anchorage

The area was originally part of the Rhodian confederacy and then occupied by the Romans in 129 BC. You can still see the remains of a 5,000 seat theatre, various temples, houses, tombs and defensive walls and towers.

Sunset at the islands

On Castle Island is a once-beautiful sandy beach about 50 metres wide with clear blue water. Now there are hordes of day trippers who come over by ferry from the mainland to enjoy the deck chairs, sumbrellas, loud disco music and ice cream stalls. Although you can swim here the historic beach itself is fenced off from the public with a security guard in a tower at each end to ensure nobody spoils the beach composed of sand imported by galleys from Egypt by Cleopatra so that she could enjoy the beach during her time here with Mark Anthony. The sand has been analysed and confirmed as coming from North Africa. Amazing to think of the effort which would have been expended to bring over hundreds of tonnes of sand!

Cleopatra's beach

We enjoy a swim at Cleopatra's beach after the day trippers have departed

Nearby Degirmen Buku contains a cove called English Harbour, so named because during WW 2 it was used by the English Special Boat Squadron (SBS) as a base of operations. The SBS was a marine version of the SAS and mostly used local caiques for their missions. 

Envoy at anchor in peaceful English Cove

Turks are highly nationalistic and their flags abound

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