TURKISH GOVERNMENT MAKES IT A LITTLE EASIER FOR CRUISERS AS ENVOY CRUISES THE AEGEAN

We’ve heard that the Turkish Ministry of Interior has eased its position regarding residency permits for cruisers. In a document published 14/5/12 they openly state that cruisers are beneficial to their economy, and that’s the reason for the change. Cruisers will no longer need to provide a Turkish address or have a long term marina contract in order to obtain residency. The accepted address will now be that of the boat specified in the Transit Log. The process still involves some additional cost and inconvenience compared to the previous 90 day renewable visa system, but is a welcome move. Astypalea is one of the most sheltered island groups in the Aegean, and we spent a few days in a bay called Maltezana, mentioned in the last post as so-named because it was a lair for Maltese pirates preying on shipping plying across the Aegean. Here there is a memorial to a French Naval Officer, Captain Bisson, who was sailing an under-crewed captured prize-ship, Panayoti, back to France with some pirate prisoners aboard in 1862. He was forced by bad weather to shelter in a small cove near Maltezana, and here some pirates escaped and met the Maltese pirates ashore. That night two boats containing about 140 pirates attacked the ship, and knowing that he had no chance, and not wanting the ship to fall into the hands of pirates, Captain Bisson, blew the ship up, killing himself and a good many of the boarding pirates.
Memorial to Captain Bisson who blew up his ship killing many pirates

While anchored here a Dutch-built 18m trawler, Sarah Jane, similar to a Nordhavn joined us. She is crewed by a Croatian couple, Captain Raoul, and his wife, Ditsi, who were taking the vessel to Rhodos to meet the owners. One of the owners is the Irish-born author, Caroline Faver, who recently wrote an excellent cookbook. We all got on great and Raoul gave us some useful advice about cruising in Croatia.
Sarah Jane was built from steel in 1962, powered by a 1930 Gardner 180hp engine. This engine is nearly three times the size of our 143hp engine, and cruises at a very low 900 rpm for 7.5 knots at 14 litres/hour. Her extra 4m in length compared with Envoy gives her a much more spacious cockpit, as well as accommodation for 12, including the two crew, in five cabins, and an engine room you can walk around in. Unusually for a motor vessel she has a wind-driven power generator, and Raoul said this supplies about 75% of their power needs at anchor.

Dutch steel trawler, Sarah Jane

Sarah Jane and Envoy anchored in Maltezana

No this is not one of the Maltese pirates, but Captain Raoul of Sarah Jane, Laurie and Ditsi

Colorful local fishing boat

Astypalea has a hill-top chora, with the remains of a Genoese 15th century castle, inhabited until the 1950s, when an earthquake severely damaged it.
Historically the inhabitants of the castle had an understanding with the local pirates, and all co-existed on the island.

15th century Genoese castle and Chora in Astypalea

We met a butcher here with a distinct Australian accent, and it turned out he was born in Sydney to Greek parents who returned to the family home in Astypalea when he was 14, and he’s stayed there since.
En-route to Santorini we anchored off the island of Anafi for a night, and had dinner ashore at a quaint taverna. Like many small Tavernas, they have no menu but just tell you what food selection is available.

The small port on Anafi Island

Above - Envoy anchored off Anafi Island with flopper stoppers out to reduce rolling in the swell
Popy’s Taverna on Anafi Island.

TECHNICAL
Nothing to report – great! New house-bank batteries have been ordered from Deka agent in Italy to be delivered to us in Corfu (Greece) early August. By sheer coincidence that’s the arrival time of Doug & Mary. Doug is an electrician and battery expert.
LOG
To 2 June 64 days aboard, cruised 291NM for 54 engine hours