Otranto
area
At
this point in our story Envoy's still in Italy, berthed in a
not-so-good marina, but in a very picturesque location - Otranto. For
several days there are over 20 knot winds outside the port causing
two metre seas that create a surge in the port. All the moored boats
move around and strain at their mooring lines, in fact we joke that
it's a lot rougher here than in many anchorages. Nevertheless locals
say Otranto is tenable in most conditions, even at anchor.
Otranto
is in an area known as Apulia, steeped in history with many
interesting places to see.
We
arrange a taxi to take us to the historic town of Maglie and the fare
is a very steep 40 Euros for about a 20 minute ride. Our visit
coincides with siesta time so there's virtually nobody around in the
streets and piazzas and nothing open. For the return journey Chris
negotiates a cheaper fare of 30 Euros. The driver's a nice young guy
and tells us he has a girlfriend, but that there's a big problem with
the summer high season coming. I ask him if the problem is him having
to work extra long hours. “No,” he replies. “It's due to the
temptation of so many pretty girls around.”
We
learn it's much cheaper to hire a car than use a taxi and arrange a
rental for 40 Euros per day to visit Lecce – one of the main
attractions in Apulia and known as the “Florence of the South”
with its Baroque style buildings. There's also an impressive Roman
ampitheatre in amazingly original condition discovered during
excavations for a new building in the early 20th century.
However the temperature's in the mid 30s - much too hot to wander
around for too long so we spend much of our time in a shady cafe
soaking in the atmosphere.
We
have our final day and night out with our close friend Chris in
Otranto and bid him farewell.
Chris
has been our companion aboard Envoy longer than any other guest and
contributed not only to the fun but used his energy, enthusiasm and
skills to assist with many maintenance and upgrade jobs – thank you
McGyver!
The
wind drops and we're able to leave Otranto. It's not that the sea was
particularly rough, but more our lack of local knowledge of nearby
safe anchorages. The Cruising Guide says they are very few, but we
find our first one just three miles south of Otranto, not even
mentioned in the Cruising Guide and nicely sheltered from the
predominating northerly wind. We stay here two nights with about 20
smallish boats anchored during the day but only we overnight. On the
first night a police boat comes to check on us about 0200hrs and
leaves us in peace after a brief chat. Fishing boats also work very
close to us but leave us alone the second night.
Porto
Miggiano
We
cruise about five miles further south to a fantastic anchorage called
Porto Miggiano. I note the log that so far we've cruised 184 miles
since leaving Lefkada in early June and not a drop of spray has come
on deck so far!
Again
there are many dayboats but only us during a glassy calm night.
Ashore
there are hundreds of bathers adorning the small beach and larger
rocky foreshore, seemingly oblivious to the heat and the sun's ultra
violet rays. People don't go to the beach for peace and quiet here
and loud music booms across the water from early afternoon.
Nothing
seems to happen early around the Med, so the nicest times in these
anchorages are the tranquil mornings and evenings and these times
generall coincide with when the wind is lightest too.
Envoy
in Porto Miggiano
Bathers
in Porto Miggiano
I
want to get some information about our next anchorage called Porto
Castro so jump into the RHIB and go over to see some locals in a 40ft
sailing cat “Second Life”. As I approach they look at me like
“who the hell are you and what do you want.” (later they tell me
they were very surprised to see me).
I
introduce myself and they tell me Porto Castro is great, that they
are going to anchor there tonight and why don't we join them on board
for dinner – a big surprise and of course I accept.
When
we try to lift Envoy's anchor we find it's stuck. In well over a
thousand times anchoring Envoy I think this is only the second time.
In the water with my mask and snorkel I see the anchor's fluke is
wedged under a large flat bed of rock and the depth is about 12
metres – much too deep for me to go down and free it. So the best
alternative is to let out more chain, use our bow thruster and engine
to turn Envoy 180 degrees and try to pull the anchor out from the
opposite direction. Actually this wasn't so easy in a crowded
anchorage with lots of small boats moving around. First I cleat a
strong snubbing line on the anchor chain to avoid putting too much
strain on the windlass. We reverse up steadily and first time – no
luck. The second time we hear an almighty crunch and Envoy pulls
sharply back from the strain. At first I think we've broken the
anchor chain, but we have success and the anchor has pulled free.
Porto
Castro
We
cruise down to Porto Castro which turns out to be a great night time
anchorage and really nice ashore too, but in the daytime it's subject
to residual swell and lots of boat wakes. We have a really fun night
with our new Italian friends, party people Sonia, Marco, Riccardo,
Matina and another with name forgotten. They have a guitar aboard and
I contribute singing The House of The Rising Sun.
Interesting cove at Porto Castro
Next
day we find a safe place to leave our small RHIB in the crowded small
boat marina and have a good explore ashore as well as visiting the
castle, towering above the anchorage.
Stunning architecture near Porto Castro
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