Envoy
is berthed in Lefkas Marina for the winter while we're home in
Auckland enjoying the exceptionally hot southern hemisphere summer.
Our future cruising plans aren't clear at this point and we'll have a
better idea shortly.
This
is an edited version of our article recently published in Pacific
PowerBoat magazine.
The north-east
coast of New Zealand's North Island's offers incredible cruising,
particularly within its prime area ranging from Whitianga in the
south to Whangaroa in the north, a distance of around 250 miles
following the coast with about 50 offshore islands suitable for
overnight anchoring along the way, a handful of which are virtually
all-weather. Imagine an area many times this size with hundreds of
offshore islands offering not only spectacular safe anchorages, but
interesting atmospheric villages, welcoming rustic tavernas and
historic ruins dating back thousands of years.
This is Greece,
offering incredible cruising particularly from April through October
with mostly stable warm weather, spectacular natural scenery, clean
waters, areas of great historical interest, friendly and honest
people, a high level of personal safety and reasonable costs. What
about their economic crisis and the refugees? Well for the visitor
there's little sign of any crisis and we've not yet seen a single
refugee as they're mainly confined to a few islands close to Turkey.
Envoy moored stern-to in Rhodes harbour
Although thousands
of boats cruise Greece during summer the area is so vast that even
the popular anchorages are no more crowded than Auckland's Kawau or
Waiheke islands during holiday weekends.
You don't need to
own a boat to cruise here as there are many charter boats offered to
high standards at reasonable costs. Depending on your experience
level you can charter skippered or bareboat and cruise independently
or as part of a flotilla. This is a great way to check out whether
Med cruising is for you.
Envoy anchored off Spinalonga
July and August are hot by our standards often reaching mid 30s, although the humidity is low and the sun doesn't have New Zealand's high U/V level so it doesn't seem uncomfortable. Although Envoy has air conditioning we never find conditions warrant using it, in any case preferring fresh air flowing through open windows and portholes.
Envoy anchored off Spinalonga
July and August are hot by our standards often reaching mid 30s, although the humidity is low and the sun doesn't have New Zealand's high U/V level so it doesn't seem uncomfortable. Although Envoy has air conditioning we never find conditions warrant using it, in any case preferring fresh air flowing through open windows and portholes.
It's easy to leave
your boat in a marina and travel around Greece for sightseeing using
high quality and regular coaches and ferries as well as rental cars
(foreign licenses accepted). Motorways connect most of the major
cities, but rural roads can be pretty basic. Many people speak
passable English, particularly younger ones and most people are very
polite and helpful.
Supplies are
readily available with most prices cheap by our standards at
supermarkets, markets and smaller shops while fuel and water are
widely available dockside. Interestingly fuel pumps are not common
and fuel is often delivered in small road tankers.
The main
convenient international airports are Athens, Corfu and Iraklion,
although there are others.
Greece is a
natural gateway to other destinations as it's relatively easy to
cruise north-east to Albania, Montenegro and Croatia, west to Italy
and east to Turkey.
Greece can be
broadly divided into the four main regions mentioned below:
1 Mainland including Peloponnisos
Athens can be
accessed from the port of Piraeus. A guided walking tour will show
you most sights with the Parthenon atop the Acropolis and its
adjacent museum of particular interest.
From the port of
Itea in the Gulf of Corinth you can visit Delphi's many spectacular
ruins, where in ancient times wealthy people paid a fortune to have
the oracle interpreted, supposedly predicting their future.
Cruising around
the Peloponnisos coast is a great experience visiting historic towns
such as (west to east) Pilos, Methoni, Koroni, Kalamata, Yithion, the
island of Kithera and Monemvasia.
2 Western side – Ionian Sea
islands
Preveza on the
mainland is a great place to rent a car to visit Meteora with its
amazing ancient monasteries perched atop originally impregnable rock
formations and accessed using rope ladders. Nearby Mystras has a
great castle set upon a craggy hilltop. On the way you will pass
through Ioannina, an historic Turkish town with an impressive
lakeside castle
Anchor off the
village of Parga with its narrow cobbled lanes, great waterfront and
castle. Slightly further north is Mourtos with several spectacular
anchorages set among several uninhabited islands.
Further north is
the island of Corfu with its historic city, castles and spectacular
seaside villages such as Ormos Agni, Ormos Kalami, Kassiopi and
Palaiokastrita.
Just south of
Corfu the island of Paxoi has great anchorages at Lakka, Longos and
Gaios.
3 Eastern side – Aegean Sea
islands
By far the most
famous island is Santorini. Yes it's a bit crowded, but the Caldera
is unforgettable.
There are many
other stunning islands contained within the Northern and Eastern
Sporades, the Cyclades and Dodecanese. Watch for the Meltemi – the
strong north-westerly which often blows in the afternoon and can last
several days.
4 Crete
You could easily
cruise a few weeks here with plenty to see. Of particular interest
from east to west are Ayios Nikolaos, Rethimno, Khania, Soudha Bay
(visit the New Zealand war cemetery) and stunning Gramvousa Island
with its spectacular hilltop castle.
NZ war cemetery at Soudha Bay
Envoy anchored off Dia Island
Because a place isn't mentioned in this article doesn't mean it's not great – there are just too many to mention! The only negatives to cruising in Greece are that the fishing is lousy (locals mostly fish using nets) and scuba diving is mostly not allowed except as part of a guided dive group (to prevent theft of artifacts).
Very shortly we'll
post an article about preparing yourselves for the live-aboard cruising
life.
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