Envoy is currently in Rethimno Marina, northern Crete.
Next stop is the island of Nisos Elafonisos where we find a superb anchorage with sparkling clear waters on the NW side called Nisis Elli. We're the only boat anchored here and we take the RHIB ashore to enjoy a swim off the sandy beach, followed by cheese, olives and cold shandy. This is not a taverna-lined beachfront but a deserted bay with just a few holiday apartments back from the stunning beach.
This is a bay on the south side of Nisos Elafonisos
From here it's only about 10 miles to the island of Kithera, lying off the south-eastern coast of Peloponnisos and one of the most unspoiled of all Greek islands.
Its main port is Kapsali at the southern tip of the island - a beautiful bay to anchor in, surrounded by rugged cliffs and overlooked by the stunning hilltop fortress. The bay is exposed to the south so a bit rolly, but our flopper-stoppers do their job in reducing the effect of the swell.
Envoy at anchor with fortress behind
Kapsali harbour from the fortress with Envoy and just one other boat anchored
Ashore the old buildings are mostly painted with traditional whitewash contrasted with blue shutters, the seafront being lined with small tavernas. It's still very quiet with only three or four other boats anchored here during our several day stop.
Kapsali's taverna-lined foreshore
We liked these attractive steps and shrubbery
The bay has a small wharf and this is where most visiting boats want to go – why I don't know as it's much nicer to be anchored out in the bay. With the summer season getting under way we're starting to see some very large planing motor vessels in the 20-30 metre range, of course all with about four to six uniform-clad crew. Some of these are seriously large vessels and it's amusing to see them want to anchor right in close as if they are a small weekend cruiser.
Surely the wharf wasn't intended for boats of this size
Many Greeks from Kithera emigrated to Australia and as we wander around we hear the accents of many of them back here enjoying holidays.
We take a taxi up the steep winding road to the fortress and chora (hilltop village) for some exploration and stunning views.
The Chora viewed from the fortress
Built on a steep rocky promontory the fortress appears impregnable
Later we do some shopping at a small superette and find the owner to be extremely generous. It's a hot day so he gives us free bottles of cold water, provides various cheeses for us to taste, gives me a free cold beer and then a healthy discount off the bill.
Our generous superette owner
My ears are slightly sore from constant exposure to seawater so we visit the small local hospital, finding it very modern and seemingly well-equipped. It's under-staffed but the doctor and nurse we meet are very courteous and helpful, the doctor complaining that she's rostered for 12 hours a day. Treatment is free but we have to pay for the medications provided.
We move on to anchor off the village of Avemolana which was new to us and a thoroughly delightful spot. This is not only sheltered from the consistent northerly winds but free from any swell, although there are wakes from fishing boats coming in and out of their harbour at all hours of day and night. As an aside fishing boats don't make any concession to anchored visiting boats and pass close by making uncomfortable wakes. I guess they've been out for hours tending nets and keen to get home.
Ashore is a rocky cove where locals swim in crystal clear water from several small boat jetties and this whole scene is overlooked by several atmospheric tavernas.
Envoy is in distant background from this great inlet
Envoy anchored off Avemolana
Even the goats enjoy Avemolana's waters
There is no respite in the northerly wind and after two nights at Avemolana we move on in a 20 knot headwind and 1.5-2 metre head seas to Neapolis on the mainland. Unfortunately the steep seas and Envoy's pitching motion tosses our herb garden overboard as we'd left it on the transom where it had so far safely sat for hundreds of miles. Diane had worked hard to get these mint, oregano and thyme plants into great shape so we're a bit sad about this.
Just outside Dhiakofti is the wreck of the cargo ship Nordland, and as author Rod Heikell says it looks like her skipper attempted to perch her atop the islet.
Neapolis is on the eastern side of a large bay nearly four miles across called Ormos Vatika. As we approach land in late afternoon the seas gradually reduce until they diminish into wavelets and we anchor in a relatively flat sea. Half an hour later though the wind changes to the south and a fetch kicks in. Fortunately it only lasts until sunset and then the wind reverts to its forecast north and all is peaceful for the night.
Next day first priority is to replace our herb garden and from three different shops we find a planter, soil, and all three herbs. Now the planter is secured to the transom so it can't fall overboard.
At this stage we've had over 20 knot northerlies for several days and they're forecast to continue. In fact this is the “Meltemi” wind, notorious in the Aegean Sea that we're now bordering and is not what we need when we have a 60 mile open sea crossing to make to Milos Island soon. The Meltemi often lasts for a week or longer keeping many cruising boats holed up in safe anchorages. It's caused by high pressure areas in the eastern Aegean (with winds circling anti-clockwise) combining with low pressure areas to the west (with winds circling clockwise) to produce generally Beaufort Force 5-7 winds. Although this is not a particularly strong wind by New Zealand standards the resulting sea conditions are much more severe here than with the same wind level at home. I'm not sure why this is so, but all cruisers comment on the fact that while the waves are not overly large at typically two metres they are close together, steep and breaking.
We decide to position ourselves at Monemvasia, being about the closest mainland point to Milos, so we can make the crossing when the weather is suitable.
Next stop is the island of Nisos Elafonisos where we find a superb anchorage with sparkling clear waters on the NW side called Nisis Elli. We're the only boat anchored here and we take the RHIB ashore to enjoy a swim off the sandy beach, followed by cheese, olives and cold shandy. This is not a taverna-lined beachfront but a deserted bay with just a few holiday apartments back from the stunning beach.
This is a bay on the south side of Nisos Elafonisos
From here it's only about 10 miles to the island of Kithera, lying off the south-eastern coast of Peloponnisos and one of the most unspoiled of all Greek islands.
Its main port is Kapsali at the southern tip of the island - a beautiful bay to anchor in, surrounded by rugged cliffs and overlooked by the stunning hilltop fortress. The bay is exposed to the south so a bit rolly, but our flopper-stoppers do their job in reducing the effect of the swell.
Envoy at anchor with fortress behind
Kapsali harbour from the fortress with Envoy and just one other boat anchored
Ashore the old buildings are mostly painted with traditional whitewash contrasted with blue shutters, the seafront being lined with small tavernas. It's still very quiet with only three or four other boats anchored here during our several day stop.
Kapsali's taverna-lined foreshore
We liked these attractive steps and shrubbery
The bay has a small wharf and this is where most visiting boats want to go – why I don't know as it's much nicer to be anchored out in the bay. With the summer season getting under way we're starting to see some very large planing motor vessels in the 20-30 metre range, of course all with about four to six uniform-clad crew. Some of these are seriously large vessels and it's amusing to see them want to anchor right in close as if they are a small weekend cruiser.
Surely the wharf wasn't intended for boats of this size
Many Greeks from Kithera emigrated to Australia and as we wander around we hear the accents of many of them back here enjoying holidays.
We take a taxi up the steep winding road to the fortress and chora (hilltop village) for some exploration and stunning views.
The Chora viewed from the fortress
Built on a steep rocky promontory the fortress appears impregnable
Later we do some shopping at a small superette and find the owner to be extremely generous. It's a hot day so he gives us free bottles of cold water, provides various cheeses for us to taste, gives me a free cold beer and then a healthy discount off the bill.
Our generous superette owner
My ears are slightly sore from constant exposure to seawater so we visit the small local hospital, finding it very modern and seemingly well-equipped. It's under-staffed but the doctor and nurse we meet are very courteous and helpful, the doctor complaining that she's rostered for 12 hours a day. Treatment is free but we have to pay for the medications provided.
We move on to anchor off the village of Avemolana which was new to us and a thoroughly delightful spot. This is not only sheltered from the consistent northerly winds but free from any swell, although there are wakes from fishing boats coming in and out of their harbour at all hours of day and night. As an aside fishing boats don't make any concession to anchored visiting boats and pass close by making uncomfortable wakes. I guess they've been out for hours tending nets and keen to get home.
Ashore is a rocky cove where locals swim in crystal clear water from several small boat jetties and this whole scene is overlooked by several atmospheric tavernas.
Envoy is in distant background from this great inlet
Envoy anchored off Avemolana
Even the goats enjoy Avemolana's waters
There is no respite in the northerly wind and after two nights at Avemolana we move on in a 20 knot headwind and 1.5-2 metre head seas to Neapolis on the mainland. Unfortunately the steep seas and Envoy's pitching motion tosses our herb garden overboard as we'd left it on the transom where it had so far safely sat for hundreds of miles. Diane had worked hard to get these mint, oregano and thyme plants into great shape so we're a bit sad about this.
Just outside Dhiakofti is the wreck of the cargo ship Nordland, and as author Rod Heikell says it looks like her skipper attempted to perch her atop the islet.
Next day first priority is to replace our herb garden and from three different shops we find a planter, soil, and all three herbs. Now the planter is secured to the transom so it can't fall overboard.
At this stage we've had over 20 knot northerlies for several days and they're forecast to continue. In fact this is the “Meltemi” wind, notorious in the Aegean Sea that we're now bordering and is not what we need when we have a 60 mile open sea crossing to make to Milos Island soon. The Meltemi often lasts for a week or longer keeping many cruising boats holed up in safe anchorages. It's caused by high pressure areas in the eastern Aegean (with winds circling anti-clockwise) combining with low pressure areas to the west (with winds circling clockwise) to produce generally Beaufort Force 5-7 winds. Although this is not a particularly strong wind by New Zealand standards the resulting sea conditions are much more severe here than with the same wind level at home. I'm not sure why this is so, but all cruisers comment on the fact that while the waves are not overly large at typically two metres they are close together, steep and breaking.
We decide to position ourselves at Monemvasia, being about the closest mainland point to Milos, so we can make the crossing when the weather is suitable.
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