SICILY’S STUNNING AEOLIAN ISLANDS

Envoy is now at Kalami Bay, Corfu, Greece.
Next stop was the Aeolian Islands, a group of seven stunning still-active volcanic cones about 15 miles off Sicily’s central north coast. 
At Isole Vulcano we anchored off a great south coast beach called Gelso.

Laurie, Doug and Mary enjoying evening drinks on a small beach near Gelso

Another day there we couldn’t resist having a beer or three in an atmospheric palm frond-thatched beach bar, and while chatting to their friendly staff in our happy state we decided to have a fresh seafood lunch there the next day. On our way back to Envoy we were joined by a pod of frolicking dolphins rounding off a perfect day.

Very basic but totally atmospheric beach bar at Gelso

Two views of Envoy anchored off perfectly-calm Gelso beach

Mary taking in a sunset in Envoy’s cockpit

Next day we went ashore for lunch and the chef proudly displayed a platter holding a fresh fish that looked something like a three kg snapper. Doug asked him how much it was going to cost, and we all reeled in shock when he told us 100 Euros (NZ$156). After going into the restaurant we told our waiter we weren’t all that hungry and had decided to have a pizza instead. His English wasn’t all that great, and we were unsure if they really understood us as we ate our pizzas in trepidation of being served the super-expensive fish. Fortunately the restaurant was very busy and they must have been able to serve the fish to somebody else. Nearby Porto di Levante on Vulcano’s north east coast is anything but peaceful, and we made the mistake of paying 60 Euros (NZ$94) for a mooring only to be later surrounded by boats anchoring very close to us in the mooring area for free. Fortunately the wind stayed light and in the same direction or chaos would have resulted – a mix of anchored and moored boats doesn’t work. Ashore is a mud pool said to have therapeutic healing powers, and there was no shortage of people frolicking in the mud in various states of undress putting this theory to the test.

Two views of Vulcano’s mud pool

Isole Salina is about five miles NW of Vulcano, and here we anchored off the Santa Maria Marina in choppy conditions for one night allowing us to explore this peaceful small town without the tourist hordes of Vulcano and Lipari.

Mary watches a cane basket weaver at work in Salina

Many of Salina’s streets have beautiful flower gardens

Lipari is the main Aeolian island and we anchored off Marina Corta, slightly south of the old town. With all types of ferries constantly passing, the anchorage was anything but calm although did settle down during night time without passing boats churning up wakes.

Ferries passing close to anchorages cause considerable wakes

First settled 6,000 years ago Lipari has plenty to see ranging from the impressive and largely intact hilltop fortress to the narrow cobblestone streets of the old town.

What a view of Lipari from our anchorage 

We’d leave our RHIB in this great little harbour while ashore

Panorama of Lipari

On the western side of Lipari we found a reasonably sheltered and peaceful anchorage called Valle Muria away from tourists and ferry wakes, where a rustic taverna, built into an old cave serves welcome ice-cold beers.
Valle Muria’s beach bar

TECHNICAL Doug is an electrician and helped out with a few jobs, repairing a 12 volt socket in the pilothouse, installing a new engine room 12 volt blower to replace a failed one and making it more effective by installing new extraction ducting.