Sunday, February 16, 2014

PREPARING ENVOY TO BE LEFT DURING WINTER

Envoy is wintering in Lefkas Marina, Greece, and we are home in New Zealand, returning March – just four weeks to go.
After leaving Envoy we made the five hour bus trip to Athens to catch our flight home. This was our first time staying in Athens and it was interesting there was little sign of any economic doom and gloom in the downtown area of Plaka, and shops, bars and cafes were full of people. Athens is amazing and we enjoyed climbing to the summit of the Acropolis to visit the Parthenon, viewing priceless friezes from the Parthenon in the Acropolis museum, seeing the Parliament guarded by soldiers in traditional garb, and visiting several ruined temples as well as just soaking up some great local atmosphere. We saw no sign of any protests or demonstrations and local people told us that the occasional protests are largely peaceful and greatly exaggerated by foreign media.

Soldier in traditional uniform guards Parliament Building

Laurie with Greek guard

Changing the Guard

The Parthenon atop the Acropolis - I was last here with my parents in 1960

 TECHNICAL
Our last two postings mentioned special year-end technical projects. This posting details the numerous routine winterising measures we take to increase Envoy’s safety during our absence and reduce maintenance upon our return - only technical aficionados are likely to be interested in reading on about these details.
Each year we leave Envoy for about four months of Med winter and arrange someone to regularly check on Envoy, particularly following any severe weather. They also periodically charge our battery banks and run our dehumidifier. Before leaving Envoy it takes about a week to complete the process and we always think it’s much more fun getting Envoy ready to cruise at the beginning of the season.
- seacocks - we close, except for bilge pump, sink and shower outlets.
- water maker - we pickle with storage chemicals to protect the high pressure membrane.
- engines and pumps - it’s not considered good practice to run diesel engines during winter layovers because they don’t reach their correct operating temperature. We flush the engines and all seawater pumps with fresh water for 10-15 minutes and then run glycol into their systems. This takes about three hours including genset, wing engine, two aircons, refrigeration, seawater wash down and Naiad stabilisers.
Engines must not be run with pressurised water directly from the supply, so we connect a hose to the strainers and adjust the water flow as required.
- engine master switches - we turn off.
- engine oil - unless it’s near new we change it along with oil filters for Lugger, genset and wing. We briefly run the engines on new oil to circulate it.
- drive belts - we slacken the tension and on return remove them to check condition. Many we replace annually regardless of condition.
- engine room and lazarette - we liberally spray everywhere with CRC Longlife, avoiding vee-belts and pulleys.
- main engine exhaust - we clean the stainless steel and fit its winter cover to keep out moisture.
- engine water pump impellors - we leave the genset and wing impellors in place and replace them on return. - start and house battery banks - we isolate them, leave fully-charged and arrange for monthly charging.
- dry cell batteries - we remove from all equipment.
- main breaker panel - we spray its interior with contact cleaner. On return we spray again and tighten all terminals.
- fuel tank, engine oil and coolant levels - we record these so that on return we can check for leaks.
- iron fuel tanks - we spray their tops with WD40 to reduce corrosion. We fill the tanks to 75-85% with conditioner added. Any unpolished fuel is processed through our polishing system to remove any water and microbes.
- engine fuel filters - we leave the old ones in place and replace them on our return (because immersion in fuel effects the lifetime of filters).
- fuel tank breathers - some like to block these off with masking tape to prevent the ingress of moisture. We prefer to let the tanks breathe.
- heads - we drain our holding tanks and fill them with fresh water, and leave fresh water in the bowls to keep seals moist.
- refrigerator and freezer - we empty and clean them and leave their doors open with gaskets not touching anything to avoid deformation.
 - washing machine - we leave the door open with its gasket not touching anything as above.
- galley sink waste disposer - we run plenty of water through to clean it thoroughly.
- sinks - we clean and leave plugs in to stop water vapour coming into the boat.
- mosquito nets on doors - we spray zips with silicone lubricant, spread the lubricant out using the zips, remove the nets and store below.
- interior timber - we apply a coat of our usual timber polish.
 - exterior timber - we ensure it’s all free of salt.
- navigation instruments, radios etc - we clean and fit plastic covers.
- bow thruster and windlass - we turn master power switches off and strip, check and grease the above deck areas of the windlass as well as electrical connections. Fit windlass cover.
- anchor chain - we wash with fresh water when retrieving it for the last time and check its condition in case re-galvanising is needed. Each year we turn the chain end for end to even its wear.
- fresh water tanks - we fill and add chlorine bleach to each tank.
- fresh water manifold and taps and showers - we leave turned off.
- hinges for doors and cupboards - we wipe with oil.
- locks and padlocks - we lubricate with light oil.
- stainless steel - we was exterior s/s with fresh water to remove salt. Any corrosion is removed with metal polish, then we protect the s/s with WD40.
- BBQ - we clean it (takes ages!) and stow below.
- large RHIB – we remove the seats, wash and dry them and store below. We leave the fuel tank at a low level as petrol degrades over time. We remove the battery and take it ashore for regular charging.
- small RHIB - we clean and store under cover on our foredeck.
- outboard engines - we add fuel stabiliser to the petrol and run it through the system, flush the engines with fresh water (not done during the year when using daily), and spray them with WD40. The small Honda is stored below.
- cockpit shower hose and seawater wash down hose - we drain the water out to avoid algae growth and store below.
- boat hooks - we clean and spray with WD40 to prevent seizure.
- bilge pumps - we leave on.
- mattresses - we store upright to avoid mildew.
- saloon chairs - we fit their protective covers on.
- ventilation - we leave all drawers, cupboards and doors slightly open to allow air circulation as well as leaving one saloon engine room hatch off for the same reason.
- lpg bottles and fittings - we turn off and spray with WD40.
- deck storage boxes - we secure with padlocks.
- boom winch controls - we remove and stow the remote sensor box, spray the winches and cables with WD40 and wrap them in plastic film to protect them from damp.
 - flags - we remove and store inside.
- cockpit chairs - we clean and store inside.
- cockpit sun shade - we remove, clean and stow below.
- flares - we check expiry dates and if needed replace on return.
- fire extinguishers - we visually check each year and get them professionally tested every 5 years.
- storage cover - we cover the entire boat ensuring full protection from the elements - takes most of a day.
Thank goodness we don't have sails to wash, dry, fold and stow.
If you’ve read this far you deserve a medal!

1 comment:

Unknown said...

While wintering for a boat can be a risky prospect, I say you guys have prepared a lot to make sure nothing goes wrong. After all, you won't be able to easily attend to emergencies while you're in New Zealand. If I were a boat owner with a similar set of conditions for my boat, this checklist would be a handy guide indeed. Thanks for sharing!

Abraham Yates @ Apache Oil Company