THE MANI REGION OF PELOPONNISOS

The central of the three peninsulas of the Peloponnisos is called the Mani, and the local Maniote people are very hardy, independent and isolated, claiming to be direct descendents of the Spartans. Historically many of them were pirates, operating from the region’s many hidden coves, riddled with caves. The Manis have different clans who used to live in fortified castle-like houses with large central towers. Many of these are still used as hotels or Greek holiday homes.
With Brian and Carol still aboard we anchored off the village of Porto Kayio in beautiful clear, clean water, and went ashore for dinner. As our RIB approached the shore a lady came out of a taverna and invited us to use a small jetty attached to her taverna. It’s often quite difficult to know quite where to leave your RIB, so this was an easy option for us, and we had a delicious meal for four consisting of bread, aubergene dip, grilled fresh local fish that tasted like tuna, a colourful Greek salad, water melon for dessert, and ample local white wine for 82 Euros (about NZ$124).

Envoy’s larger RIB alongside taverna’s makeshift jetty in Porto Kaiyo

Typical taverna menu showing prices in Euros

There sure are loads of castles in this area, and there was yet another at the small town of Koroni, where we anchored with a little shelter from a breakwater.

Envoy anchored off Koroni

Koroni’s jumble of waterfront buildings, taken from Envoy at anchor

Koroni castle as Envoy approaches harbour

Laurie, Carol and Brian amid greenery of Koroni’s main square

Colourful local cottages built into wall of Koroni castle

This quaint door at a hostel in Koroni caught our eye

Primitive building method of stone and earth wall, plastered over

We found a fish shop and decided to check if they had any fresh tuna. The shop was the typical primitive set-up with no refrigeration, and fish laid out in boxes of ice. The shopkeeper had no tuna, but offered us fresh dolphin, which we politely declined.
Monemvasia (mentioned in last post) and Methoni were strategically two of the most important Venetian towns and castles, as they protected the trade route from the Ionean to the Aegean, and for that reason these towns were called “the eye of the Republic”.
We spent four nights anchored at and around Methoni, and here met up with a New Zealand couple from Northland, Roland and Consie Lennox-King, on their yacht, Restless of Auckland. One of these nights there was a 30 knot northerly forecast, and there was some swell coming into Methoni, so rather than stay anchored with about 15 other boats at Methoni itself, we moved to a nearby more sheltered bay with no other boats anchored, and had a peaceful night in the strong wind.

Originally Methoni’s castle was protected by a sea water moat, but over time the sea level dropped, and it’s now all dry.

The Turks conquered Methoni and added this Turkish-style tower to the fortifications.

The next day we headed further north to Pilos, and there was quite a sizeable swell of about thee to four metres running, so our Naiad stabilisers were sure appreciated.
Pilos is in the large well protected bay of Ormos Navarinou, where in 1827 the Battle of Navarinon took place - a combined British, French and Russian fleet of 26 ships destroyed a combined Turkish, Egyptian, Tunisian and Algerian fleet of 78 ships (only 8 remaining afloat), killing around 3,000 in the process, while losing only 181 dead. This was the last major naval battle fought entirely by sailing ships.
As Envoy approached to moor alongside a jetty, a fuel tanker driver helped us with our lines, and we took the opportunity to buy 700 litres of diesel at Euro 1.59 (about NZ$2.41) per litre, or about US$7.33 per gal.
Normally we prefer to anchor Envoy, and not use town jetties, because you generally can’t swim in harbours, and you have to report to the Port Police to have your Transit Log stamped (not necessary when anchored). The Port Police are always courteous and helpful, and we paid a typical Euro 20 (about NZ$30) for our stay of two nights.
We rented a car for a day and made a visit to the Fortress of Mystras, a World Heritage site near the town of Sparta. Here the legendary, militaristic Spartans dominated the region from around 850BC, although little remains to be seen. We passed through the spectacular rugged Langada gorge, about 50km long, and climbing to 1,524m, where the Spartans are reputed to have left any children too weak or unfit for military service to die.
The Mystras fortress was built much later in 1249 by the Franks, although the Byzantines took it over soon afterwards. Then ownership passed back and forth between them and the Turks. Although Lonely Planet says a half-day is needed to see this site properly, we were all a bit “castled-out” by this time, and although the site is very impressive found that about two hours sufficed.

Brian enjoys a drink of pure water from a spring in the Langada Gorge

Di and Laurie at entrance to Mystras fortress

Laurie outside Mystras Fortress wall

Looking down on modern-day Sparta from Mystras Fortress

Laurie and Brian a bit "ruined-out"

Ninety per cent of the places we go to are absolutely great - but not all, and next we encountered two very ordinary places in a row.
After leaving Pilos we sheltered at anchor inside the harbour wall of Kiparissia. Although we saw a turtle swimming here, the water was too dirty to swim, and even at a nearby beach the water was also not very clean. We went out for dinner that night, at the only taverna we could find, and they only had “house wine”, which was totally undrinkable (and there’s not much that Brian and I can’t drink!)
The next day we moved north to anchor outside Katakolon harbour, and the whole area was infested with huge jelly fish making swimming impossible.
From here we got a rental car to visit ancient Olympia – see next blog.
TECHNICAL - Nothing to report.
LOG - Up to 20 July had spent 111 days aboard, and cruised 953 miles for 177 engine hours.