WE GET A SEAWATER SHOWER IN BED, AND RETURN TO THE NORTHERN SPORADES

The morning of Doug & Sharon’s arrival we got a rude awakening. We were anchored off a village called Ay Yeoryios, and fishing boats up to about 20m work from there. About 0600 we hear a boat pass close by and then a deluge of water came through our two cabin portholes and soaked us, our pillows, mattress, and books etc stored around the bed. Obviously the fishing boat either on purpose, or just not thinking, had passed far too close with too large a wake – our portholes are 0.7m above sea level. At the time we had our flopper-stoppers down, so maybe the fishing boat captain was just curious and came close to look.

View of Ay Yeoryios from where Envoy was anchored. A fishing boat came too close and we took water through the portholes above our bed



Doug & Sharon arrived having flown from Auckland to Dubai to Athens. Their plan was to get a taxi from the airport to the bus terminal, and catch a bus to Ay Konstandinos in the Gulf of Evia to meet us. Firstly they had the same problem as Ian & Patsy encountered – their NZ phone didn’t work in Greece, so they couldn’t contact us to confirm their arrival. Secondly all the taxis were on strike, so they got a bus into Athens but then couldn’t find the correct bus terminal for Ay Konstandinos. They found that people weren’t very helpful until a taxi driver on-strike heard their plight, and offered to drive them for Euro 200. As the distance was about 180km, Doug & Sharon thought this a fair price, and we finally all met as planned.

Doug buys beautiful fresh vegetables from a street vendor in Ay Konstandinos



The next day we started heading towards the Northern Sporades, and our replacement Lugger alternator stopped charging. I phoned A1 Yachting and they confirmed there was an electrician in Skiathos, so we decided to continue on our way using the genset for charging.
Skiathos is a major centre for charter boats, and was very busy with these, as well as many tourists shopping and patronizing the many waterfront tavernas. It’s also where the movie “Mamma Mia” was filmed. The N Sporades are very green, as they do get some rain all year round. They also have great beaches, even if mostly crowded, but they don’t have those classic Greek villages of white and blue stone buildings, or very much of historical interest.
There was no room for Envoy in the harbour, but we managed to find space in a crowded anchorage outside. Later we found out we were only about 200m from 15 discos competing with each other for maximum decibels until four in the morning.

Very sleek car ferry in the crowded Skiathos harbour



While Diane, Doug & had a walk around Skiathos the electrician arrived, tested the alternator, and confirmed there was no charging. He took it away, and attempted to repair it – without success. Next day we had breakfast in a taverna ashore and watched the All Blacks beat the Wallabies in rugby to retain the Bledisloe Cup. I suggested the electrician try to make one good alternator out of the two failed ones. This worked, and the electrician was confident the resulting alternator was a good one. Nevertheless we’re buying a new Balmar alternator from the US for a spare asap.

Diane & Doug enjoying lunch in Skiathos



Skiathos is interesting, but too busy to be a great cruising destination, and that afternoon we moved on to the much quieter Nissos Skopelos and had a great night ashore in a taverna.
Then another problem struck. During my daily checks I found the genset out of coolant, and on investigation found a rust hole in the body of the water circulating pump, from where all the coolant had leaked out. Although we can use our Yanmar wing engine as a genset, we need the higher capacity of the genset when running the watermaker. So back to Skiathos where A1 Yachting organised an engineer to repair the hole (with cold weld) – and all ok again. Must say by this time I was getting a bit tired of spending my days in the engine room, but as the saying goes, “Cruising is fixing your boat in exotic locations”. We have since received a new spare water pump from the US.
Back to N Skopelos again and found a wonderful bay called Limnonari. This was only large enough for a few boats, had good shelter, wonderful clear, clean water with small fish swimming around, and a taverna ashore owned by the same family for 400 years.

We stayed one night in this idyllic sheltered bay called Limnonari



We would have stayed there more than one night but had to find shelter for a gale due to arrive around midnight - we were warned by locals to expect winds up to 40 knots.
We cruised across to Nissos Alonnisos, and after checking various options decided on a bay called Ormos Milia as being our best option. This was a large bay about 800 m across, with good depths of 8-13m, no rocks or reefs, and no other boats. So we dug our anchor in, put out 100m of chain, and waited. Sure enough the forecast wind arrived about 2100 and did blow up to high 30s for several hours, but Envoy held position and we had no problems.
As I wrote this we were doing a 45NM cruise SE to Skyros, the largest of the N Sporades.
TECHNICAL
See above re Lugger alternator and genset water pump.
LOG (to /8/11): 89 days aboard since leaving Marmaris, 1,196NM cruised for 255 engine hours.

COMMENTS
Frank said: Hi Laurie, seems like you are having a plethora of running repairs at present. I'd fit the new water pump and keep the old one as a spare. The locations sound wonderful. Can't believe there are places like you describe with no other boats. Cheers

Chris said: Now I kow why you needed that belt tightener - and I am not referring to eating less in the restaurants. See you soon.

Namik said: What can I say after reading all. Seeing what you have been experiencing with the kindness of the sea I am envious but proud of you both. Enjoy!!