Watch this space for some news of Envoy's future plans about this time next week.
Here is an article we wrote that was recently published in Pacific PowerBoat magazine.
The
North Island's north-east coast and the greater Marlborough Sounds
area provide New Zealand's two prime cruising areas. Many visitors
only experience Queen Charlotte Sound as their ferry cruises into
Picton, but this is only a small part of the broader “Sounds”
cruising area also comprising Kerepuru and Pelorus Sounds, D'Urville
and several other smaller islands, Taman Bay including the coastal
sections of the Abel Tasman National Park and Golden Bay, together
constituting over a fifth of New Zealand's entire coastline.
The
majority of cruisers here are South Islanders, but some hardy
Wellingtonians venture across the often challenging (particularly in
fresh northerlies and southerlies) Cook Strait, both from Wellington
harbour itself, some 50 miles distant and from Mana only about 25
miles away.
Indeed
the notorious Cook Strait has a history of shipwrecks including the
Union Steamship Company's ferry Wahine in 1968 in winds up to
160 knots with the loss of 153 lives and the Soviet Union's cruise
ship Mikhail Lermontov in 1986 with the loss of one crew
member.
In early January we
arrive by ferry after a calm Cook Strait crossing, entering the Tory
Channel with its swirling tidal rips to view wooded hills gently
sloping down from around 600 metres in places to sparkling blue
(albeit rather chilly) waters, rocky shorelines and delightful sandy
coves. Heading up Queen Charlotte Sound to Picton we pass fish farms
and sparsely situated holiday homes, many with the ultimate in
privacy being accessible only by sea. Later the building intensity
increases as we pass the impressive Waikawa marina to port. This is
New Zealand's third largest marina and one of five in the area, the
others being located at Picton, Havelock, Nelson and Port Tarakohe
(near Takaka) all with fuel available.
Maori
have inhabited the area for several hundred years and the first
European to visit here was Abel Tasman in 1642, but it was well over
a hundred years before the next Europeans led by Captain Cook visited
here in 1770. He made efforts to meet and understand Maori and while
this was largely successful there were also some violent encounters.
Whalers established shore stations during the 1820s and although
whaling's heyday was over by 1850 the last station didn't close until
1964.
We
drive off the ferry at Picton and head to Whatamango Bay to stay with
friends at their beachside holiday home. Picton itself is a
delightfully quaint village with its ferry terminal and commercial
wharves to the west and the marina to the east from where all manner
of sightseeing and fishing trips are available as well as bareboat
charters.
The
waterfront and few short main streets are interesting and lined with
basic shops as well as many bars, cafes and restaurants. A short
drive south takes you past the airport to one of New Zealand's most
famous wine growing areas with many well-known vineyards offering
tasting and quality dining.
To
the south of this area and about thirty minutes drive from Picton,
Blenheim is the region's main town and offerins most facilities.
Our
friends are keen boaters owning an impressive Christchurch-built
seven metre Huntsman Crusader, kept on a convenient mooring reducing
the need to launch and retrieve it. Next day six of us head off for a
few hours fishing. The Crusader leaps onto the plane with its
powerful 200hp 4-stroke Yamaha outboard comfortably achieving 20
knots at 4,400rpm and topping out 35 knots at 5,500rpm.
Cod
is the most prevalent fish here and we find this every bit as
delicious (many would argue more so) than snapper, found in larger
numbers further north. We easily reach the daily limit of two each
and interestingly land eight different species in a couple of hours
including cod, rock cod, terakihi, barracuda, shark, spiny dogfish,
leatherjacket, gurnard and octopus – an unusual combination
compared to our experiences further north. Our hosts tell us that
additional common species include red cod, sea perch, kahawai,
snapper, spottie, kingfish, eels and rays. It's not unusual to see
seals, leopard seals, whales, dolphins and orcas while divers can
also find mussels, crayfish and scallops subject to restrictions in
place at various times.
Between
D'Urville Island and the mainland is the narrow and notorious French
Pass where dangerous tidal currents can reach 8 knots and cause
whirlpools. This is New Zealand's strongest tidal current caused by a
two metre difference between tide levels on Cook Strait to the east
and Tasman Bay to the west.
Anchorages
here are picturesque and plentiful with moorings also available in
some areas (the Mana Cruising Club owns about a hundred). Except for
the entrances to the Sounds most areas are free from ocean swell, but
the wind is often strong and can whip up a surprisingly large and
uncomfortable chop. Katabatic winds can also sweep down the hillsides
taking unprepared boats by surprise.
Everybody
knows the Sounds are stunning, but the area is much larger than
commonly imagined and to explore the area fully would require about a
month of cruising, something we hope to achieve one day - a good option for us may be to buy our next boat in that area, spend some time cruising there and cruise back to Auckland.